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18. November 2019

The suits of the month January


Tobin Gattinger

The festive period is over. The snow has all melted. New Year’s Eve has come and gone. Only the hangover remains and the cold. However, we have some gifts that we’ve kept hidden from you to give you a nice little surprise to start the new year off right.

Polo coat in wool from Loro Piana

Our first suggestion started its life in the United States as a bathrobe of sorts. Originally designed to protect polo players from inclement weather after an intense match, the polo coat quickly became a status symbol of sorts for athletic students and well-heeled gentlemen who played polo. While it may have lost some of his lustre as a status symbol  over the years, it has lost none of its effortless cool and practicality. Our fabric recommendation is a beige wool (490g) from Loro Piana – even if camel might be the most traditional choice. While single-breasted polo coats have popped up lately, this is not something we would recommend. We’d suggest going double-breasted and opting for a generous length to ensure you’ll be comfortable and warm, come what may. The polo coat’s characteristic flap patch pockets are essential, as is a belt around the waist. What you wear under the coat is optional, but we could imagine a pair of mid-grey flannel trousers, a light-blue oxford-cloth button-down to continue the American theme, and a Tweed jacket or a chunky cricket sweater. A pair of chukka boots (named for the periods of play in polo) would not be out of place to round out this outfit.

The coat described above will cost around €1890. The trousers describe above will cost around €390. The shirt described above will cost around €219. Tweed jackets start at around €1450.

Three-button suit in a Prince-of-Wales check flannel from Standeven

Behind door number two, you’ll find a single-breasted suit in a Prince-of-Wales check Standeven flannel (370g). We’re going casual with a three-button jacket with two flap pockets, a flap on the chest pocket, and an elongated single back vent. The trousers will have turn-ups and one deep reverse pleat. Pair this with a cream pinpoint shirt and a red knitted tie for a classic look with a bit of flair. Leonard Kahlcke can provide you with the brown full-brogue oxfords you’ll require to finish this look off.

A note on the fabric: Never mix up a Prince-of-Wales check with a Duke-of-York check. While a Prince-of-Wales check is when you check whether your wife knows about your affair, a Duke-of-York check is a failure to check the age of the girl Jeffrey Epstein has brought to the party for you to meet. #themoreyouknow

The suit mentioned above will cost around €1850. The shirt described above will cost around €200. The knitted tie will cost €99.

Double-breasted suit in a light-blue chalk stripe flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico

For those not content with a casual look, we’ve prepared something a little more formal. Our old friend, the double-breasted chalk stripe suit is back. This time in a light blue flannel from Vitale Barberis (270g). We’d recommend two flap pockets and a ticket pocket (possible to keep your spare change in) for a business look. The trousers should feature a high rise, one back pocket on the right side, two forward-facing pleats, and, of course, turn-ups. Stay classic with a beige shirt with a white collar and cuffs, black oxfords, and a conservative silk tie with a repeating pattern.

The suit described above will cost around €1500. The shirt described above will cost €249. TG/MM/DPFC