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10. September 2018

The suits of the month for September


Maximilian Mogg

During our recent trunk show, I was once again blown away by the timeless elegance on display in the city of London. Admittedly, I might have been in a forgiving mood, as I had just spent the last six weeks in Berlin working to get our new store ready. Nonetheless, I am pleased to be able to present this edition of our suits of the month series with those impressions still very much alive in my mind’s eye.

Dark grey double-breasted pinstripe suit from H Lesser & Sons

H Lesser & Sons – Dark grey pinstripe – 400 g/m – 100% wool

Nothing quite communicates the elegance and restraint of an established English businessman quite like a dark pinstripe or chalk stripe and there is no more appropriate supplier in this context than H Lesser & Sons. They may not be on everyone’s radar (and I suspect they like it that way. If you have to ask, you’ll never know!) but their quality in unrivalled. This heavy-weight (400g/m) fabric immediately tells a story about its wearer. This is a person who puts a lot of stock in timelessness, conservativism, and elegance. To underline this sentiment, we would recommend opting for a double-breasted suit with three flap pockets, two vents, and dark grey buttons (to further emphasise that sense of classic restraint). To add a little bit of subtle flair, gauntlets are worth considering. The trousers should feature a high rise and be cut relatively full through the leg. Finally, they should match the jacket in terms of formality. As the pinstripe is a business suit, two interior pleats and 5cm turn-ups will help balance the overall look. We believe an eggshell shirt in poplin with French cuffs would best round out this look. That being said, we wouldn’t be opposed to plain, coloured shirts (lilac, anyone?). In terms of accessories, a plain navy tie or a subtle regimental stripe and a white linen pocket square will do the trick. Black quarter brogues would be your ideal choice of footwear.

A double-breasted pinstripe suit from an H Lesser & Sons fabric will cost around €1610. An eggshell poplin shirt will cost €219. For all things shoe-related, we recommend giving Mr Leonard Kahlcke a call. He will also be visiting us in our store in Berlin from 21stto 25thSeptember.

Three-piece grey herringbone suit from Holland & Sherry

Holland & Sherry – Light-grey herringbone – 420 g/m – 100% wool

September is when temperatures begin to drop again (Oh, no!). However, that also means that you can wear your previously-neglected three-piece suits again (Oh, yes!). Our fabric of choice this month is a light to mid-grey herringbone from Holland & Sherry’s ‘Vintage City Suiting’ bunch. The fabrics in this bunch are inspired by the Holland & Sherry archives and are woven in a fantastic heavy weight (420g/m), ideal fabric for a three-piece suit. In our humblest of opinions, the jacket should feature one button and notch lapels, two back vents, and either two or three (possibly hacking) pockets with flaps. The waistcoat should feature five buttons and a cloth-back (for that little bit of added elegance); lapels can be added upon request. We would recommend pleats and high turn-ups on the trousers. A light blue poplin shirt with French cuffs is your best friend. Shoes can be anything from plain oxfords, to semi-brogues or even full-brogues in black, although dark brown and oxblood are not inconceivable.

A three-piece suit from Holland & Sherry’s ‘Vintage City Suiting’ will cost around €1700. The shirt will cost €200. For further thoughts on the shoe conundrum, Mr Kahlcke is the man.

Lilac corduroy trousers from Brisbane Moss with tweed jacket from Porter & Harding

Brisbane Moss – Lilac corduroy – 310g/m – 100% cotton
Porter & Harding – Navy Harris Tweed – 450g/m – 100% wool

September is all about finding the perfect work-life balance. You’ve just come back from your holiday. Your children are just going back to school. You need to make sure to take a day or two off and really enjoy the finer things in life. Don’t worry. We have you covered. Corduroy is back, baby! Corduroy is soft, durable, charming in a very particular way, and serves as the perfect platform to play with colours. And, in terms of colours, we’re your cordurboys. We recommend a pair of lilac corduroy trousers from Brisbane Moss (310g/m) without any flashy accoutrements. No turn-ups, no pleats, no belt-loops, and one back pocket. To stick with the casual theme, we would recommend one of our dark blue MTM cashmere roll-necks. As the trousers are somewhat daring, we would recommend a navy Harris Tweed from Porter & Harding (a true classic!) for the jacket. In terms of stylisation, you could opt for the classic two buttons and notch lapel or be a bit flamboyant and choose a single button and peak lapel. Whatever your choice, we would recommend patch pockets and two vents. The perfect shoes are dark brown penny loafers or tassel loafers, complemented by some lilac OTC socks.

Trousers made from Brisbane Moss corduroy will cost around €290. A two-ply MTM cashmere sweater starts at €490. The jacket will cost around €1140. Our tassel loafer of choice would be from Mr Korbinian Ludwig Hess. A stunning example of his work is available on his Instagram. It’s worth taking a look! MM / DC