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3. August 2018

The Suits of the Month: August

by

Maximilian Mogg

Oh, my… It is simply too hot to function at the moment. August promises to kick us in our unprepared and (disastrously) denim-clad behinds and we think it is high time to invest in some specialised summer clothing. By the way, just curious, how do you feel about wearing white?

The off-white single-breasted linen suit

We are going to try something unprecedented today at Maximilian Mogg. We are going to read your mind, dear reader. You saw the title and thought to yourself: “I do not want to look like Crockett in Miami Vice.” Calm down! Firstly, we all know that you dowant to look like Crockett in Miami Vice (but we’ll pretend that we don’t). Secondly, we also wouldn’t recommend copying his soft haircuts, Italian sports cars, and suit and t-shirt combinations.

White Linen by Dugdale Bros & Co.

What we have in mind is a casual weekend look – a single-breasted linen suit cut from off-white heavy linen from Dugdale Bros & Co. with two slanted pockets, a single closing button, and wide peak lapels. We would recommend finishing the sleeves with only one button to add a bit of flair. On that note, we could imagine mother-of-pearl or maybe even cloth-covered buttons. The shirt we have in mind would be light blue (maybe even with a subtle pink stripe) and also made of linen. If you want to become one of the schichibukai, we would recommend a one-piece collar that can be worn elegantly over the jacket’s lapels and a single button barrel cuff. We would round out the look with penny loafers, espadrilles, or maybe even nice roman sandals.

A two-piece Dugdale off-white linen suit costs €1420. The shirt costs €259.

The eggshell dinner jacket and midnight blue (or black) mohair evening trousers

Eggshell Barathea by Dugdale Bros & Co.

Is there anything more satisfying in a gentleman’s wardrobe than an eggshell dinner jacket? Nothing suggests summer elegance quite like it, especially with a shawl collar. We recommend a light barathea fabric for another one-button jacket with one sleeve button (although the cloth-covered buttons are non-negotiable on this occasion). [Gentle reminder: White dinner jackets are never faced with silk, as it always looks slightly off.] The jacket does not need any vents (or lining, for that matter – it’s summer after all). For the shirt, we would deviate slightly from our traditional house style and cut the white voile or eggshell poplin fabric slightly wider through the body to allow more air to circulate. As there are so many elegant possibilities for the front of a dinner shirt, we would leave this up to customer’s choice! However, we like the idea of a cocktail cuff (think James Bond in Dr No) instead of the traditional French cuff. Black tie demands a bow tie and we would recommend a Maximilian Mogg favourite: the large single-end bow tie. The trousers should be cut (surprise surprise!) with a high rise, feature a wide leg and, ideally, be part of an existing evening suit – maybe something in a midnight blue mohair blend, although black is also obviously appropriate. The braiding should be in black or midnight blue grosgrain silk.

There are two final things to note when commissioning such a jacket. Firstly, the first point of comparison will inevitably be Sean Connery’s Bond, so work on your Scottish accent. Secondly, some might suggest that you are being disrespectful of the basic concept of simplicity and uniformity at black tie events. For the latter occasion, we recommend preparing a short note that reads: “Thank you for your concern”. We’re sure that you’ll find ample space for your note in one of the jacket’s inside pockets.

The eggshell dinner jacket in a barathea from Dugdale costs €1050. The trousers in a mohair from Standeven cost €490. The evening shirt made of voile costs €370.

White trousers

White Twill by Vitale Barberis Canonico.

Mr Joe Brady is already skipping happily across the stage in Anchors Aweighwith Jerry the mouse just at the thought of a pair of crisp white trousers. Our take on this classic look is made of wool and involves a high rise, a slight flare, one back pocket with a flap, no belt loops and slanted pockets. Complete the look with a Breton-stripe t-shirt. The only point on which we disagree with Gene Kelly (who plays Joe Brady, of course) relates to footwear. We would recommend penny loafers in brown suede or multi-coloured espadrilles.

Trousers described above can be had for as little as €290.

Further information

This month sees us complete our long-awaited move to a new store at Bleibtreustr. 22, 10707 Berlin. We will still be available throughout August, although only by appointment. MM/DC