The Mad Tailor: Your Sartorial Planner (When to order?)

The time has finally come. You have just received your brand new double-breasted flannel suit. You put it on. It fits like a glove. Today is going to be a good day. You look out the window. Shocked by the weather, you turn towards the calendar on the wall. You hear the crackling noise from Poltergeist and your son turns away from the TV and proclaims ‘Summer’s here’. Finally, you see it. The thing you didn’t want to admit to yourself. It’s the 10th of June. It could all have been so beautiful. What went wrong? The last thing you remember is waking up on the last cold day in April and wanting to get something heavy to keep you warm. You were unprepared.

We’ve lived through this horror too many times ourselves and we simply had to do something about it. So, we switched on the Mad-Tailor-signal at Mogg Headquarters. Obviously, he was already in the building and confused by the melodrama. However, he offered to help regardless.

Problem

The origins of this problem are clear enough. You are trapped in the hurly-burly of daily life and don’t have time to stop and think about your next move. Our solution is simple: aesthetic efficiency – explained more fully here (link). Whether in spring, summer, fall, or winter, a week always has seven days and you need to dress for every single one of those days. There are fabrics and suit styles for every season and every lifestyle. Unless you happen to be a direct descendant of Croesus, being a(n) (appropriately dressed) man for all seasons will take time. To complicate matters further, Superman: The Movie was terrible and you’re going to need to plan ahead if you want to have your suits ready for the next season.

On the run.

Solution

While clothing is a very personal concern and one-size-fits-all solutions simply don’t exist, the Mad Tailor has made us an offer we can’t refuse. He will give us an insight into his wardrobe of shirts, suits, and overcoats. Perhaps some readers will be able to use this as a guideline when putting together their own wardrobe.

A few side notes: While his clothing is divided by seasons, there is a lot of overlap. Also, it should be noted that the Mad Tailor dresses very conservatively.

Conservative.

Spring

Suits and combinations

  1. Dark-grey suit (very formal) cut from light to mid-weight wool
  2. Navy suit (very formal) cut from light to mid-weight wool
  3. Mid-grey chalk stripe suit (formal) in a light flannel
  4. Blue pinstripe suit (formal) in a light flannel
  5. Light-grey Prince-of-Wales check suit (less formal) in a light flannel
  6. Light-blue or blue windowpane suit (less formal) cut from light to mid-weight wool
  7. Brown houndstooth jacket (casual) cut from mid-weight wool & sand trousers in a cavalry twill

Shirts

  1. Two white shirts (very formal) in a poplin weave
  2. Two light-blue shirts (very formal) in a poplin weave
  3. An egg-shell shirt (very formal) in a poplin weave
  4. Light-blue striped shirt (formal) in a poplin weave
  5. Light-blue shirt (casual) in an oxford weave

Overcoat

Camel hair overcoat.

Order period

From the beginning of November to the end of January.

Summer

Suits and combinations

  1. Dark-grey suit (very formal) cut from a mid-weight mohair or Fresco
  2. Navy suit (very formal) cut from a mid-weight mohair or Fresco
  3. Mid-grey pinstripe suit (formal) in a light Fresco
  4. Light-blue pinstripe suit (formal) in a light Fresco
  5. Pastel suit (less formal) cut from mid-weight mohair
  6. Brown suit (casual) cut from Irish linen
  7. Beige Glen-check jacket (casual) cut from linen & egg-shell trousers in a mohair

Shirts

  1. Two white shirts (very formal) in a zephyr weave
  2. Two light-blue shirts (very formal) in a zephyr weave
  3. A yellow shirt (formal) in a zephyr weave
  4. A lilac shirt (formal) in a zephyr weave
  5. Light-blue shirt (casual) cut from linen
  6. Dark-blue shirt (casual) cut from linen

Order period

From the beginning of February to the end of April.

When to order, Mr Powers?

Autumn

Suits and combinations

  1. Dark-grey suit (very formal) cut from heavy wool
  2. Navy suit (very formal) cut from heavy wool
  3. Dark-grey chalk stripe suit (formal) in a heavy flannel
  4. Light-grey suit suit (formal) in a heavy flannel
  5. Light-grey Prince-of-Wales check suit (less formal) in a heavy flannel
  6. Aubergine-coloured suit (less formal) in a flannel
  7. Green Gun-check jacket (casual) in a wool-cashmere blend & mid-grey flannel trousers

Shirts

Two white shirts (very formal) in a poplin weave
Two light-blue shirts (very formal) in a poplin weave
An egg-shell shirt (very formal) in a poplin weave
Green-striped shirt (formal) in a poplin weave
White shirt (casual) in an oxford weave

Overcoat

Dark-grey cashmere overcoat.

Order period

From the beginning of May to the end of July.

Winter

Suits and combinations

  1. Charcoal suit (very formal) cut from very heavy flannel
  2. Midnight-blue suit (very formal) cut from very heavy wool
  3. Dark-grey multi stripe (formal) in a very heavy flannel
  4. Blue suit (formal) cut from very heavy flannel
  5. Charcoal Glen-check suit (less formal) in a very heavy flannel
  6. Dark brown suit (less formal) cut from very heavy flannel
  7. Dark blue jacket (casual) cut from heavy tweed & mid-grey trousers cut from very heavy flannel

Shirts

  1. Two white shirts (very formal) in a poplin weave
  2. Two light-blue shirts (very formal) in a poplin weave
  3. An egg-shell shirt (very formal) in a poplin weave
  4. Grey-striped shirt (formal) in a poplin weave
  5. Light-blue striped shirt (casual) in an oxford weave

Overcoat

Navy overcoat cut from a heavyweight wool.

Order period

From the beginning of August to the end of October.

Additional information

Firstly, classics like a dinner suit, tailcoat, morning suit, or a navy blazer can be ordered all year round. Secondly, we divide the year into four seasons, but it doesn’t need to be so complicated and is dependent on climate. Think: hot, cold, and mild. Thirdly, what to do with off-season clothing?  Clean it (if necessary), press it (if necessary), brush it, and put it on a hanger. Pack all suits in garment bags and hang it in a well-ventilated room. MM/ DC

Maximilian Mogg

Kreativdirektor & Chefredakteur

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