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17. September 2019

The Fabric of the Month September


Noah Werner Winslow

Where I live, the temperature still regularly reaches 35˚on any given day; I’ve yet to put my linen clothing into the back of the closet for the year. But, despite the sweltering heat outside, I’ve found myself thinking more and more about the cold months ahead.

So, in choosing what the fabric of the month should be, I decided to go ahead and pick an autumn/winter cloth. After all, after including the necessary production time and the fittings needed for any suit commission (6-8 weeks, generally, for those of you planning your next purchase), we’ll be well into the colder months.

Consequently, let me present to you the fabric of the month! This month’s selection is a beautiful Glen check fabric in a blue and ecru, from the “Travel Flannel” collection from Dugdale, perfect for those chilling autumnal days and long winter nights.

Travel Flannel by Dugdale.

Dugdale is a British mill in Huddersfield, in Yorkshire in northern England. It’s been weaving cloth since the 19th century, and its Travel Flannel bunch taps into that tradition. It combines relatively classic designs and patterns (as this Glen check pattern attests) with modern high twist weaving, to produce a flannel that is extremely crease-resistant and breathable.

The fabric itself weighs in at 300 grammes/metre. That puts the fabric on the slightly heavier end (something which gives better drape but which, combined with the high twist, will help avoid overheating). In a slightly lighter blue it taps into the classic heritage of royal and navy blue fabrics, while pushing back against the overly dark look of the season.

So, let’s talk about how you can use this.

The crease-resistant qualities of the fabric bunch help avoid those wrinkles and creases that are inevitable when spending time wedged into a seat on a plane or a train, or, if you don’t have any vacation plans, your office chair. As a flannel, it also helps keep you very comfortable, particularly when travelling. I can see this cloth being very useful on overnight flights when the cabin temperature is low.

Though a lovely cloth, I don’t think this should this be your first suit fabric. Only after you’ve covered the basics (grey and/or navy, most usually), would I recommend commissioning this fabric. It’s just slightly unusual enough in terms of colour and pattern that, while perfectly acceptable in most situations, it’s not quite as versatile as navy blue or charcoal grey.

However, should you decide to commission this, I can see this fabric working particularly well as a three-piece single-breasted suit, paired with a blue grenadine tie, and perhaps some black derby shoes. It would also do very well as an loosely cut double-breasted number, classically styled with pleated trousers, padded and roped shoulders, and wide lapels. Perhaps the more adventurous among you will opt for an odd jacket. If so, it would work well as a single-breasted three-roll-two jacket with notch lapels and two patch pockets. I would recommend pairing it with a mid-to-light grey pair of trousers and cordovan loafers. NWW/DC