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23. January 2019

Suits of the Month: February


Maximilian Mogg

Having taken a break from writing for a little while, we realised that “The Suits of the Month” (one of our most popular series) needs a little tweaking. As our Max Mogg – Berlin line of MTM suits comes with a six to eight week lead time, we’ve decided that it makes more sense to suggest a suit for the month in which the suit will be finished, not the month in which it will be ordered. As such, these are the suits of the month for April 2019.

Dark grey pinstripes from H. Lesser & Sons

Dark-grey pinstripes from H. Lesser & Co. – 330g/m

We don’t need to tell you that April is not to be trusted. Even ignoring its essential cruelty, its weather is entirely unpredictable. We recommend layering over unnecessarily heavy or overly light fabrics. Our solution is a three-piece suit, specifically in a dark-grey pinstripe from H. Lesser & Sons. Our fabric of choice comes from the legendary Lumbs Golden Bale bunch. This is simply some of the most exquisite (some would say the absolute best) wool that the United Kingdom has to offer. It will only get more beautiful and softer with time. That being said, it doesn’t come cheap. However, we all need to spoil ourselves occasionally, don’t we?

For the jacket, we would recommend two vents and wide peak lapels, one closing button, and two large, straight flap pockets. We are not beyond suggesting that gauntlets could be added. For the waistcoat, we would recommend five closing buttons, no lapel, a back made from the same fabric as the front, and an adjustable back belt. We would suggest dark-grey two-hole buttons from Bernstein and Banley’s for both the waistcoat and the jacket. The waistcoat length will be determined by the trousers’ rise, which we would recommend to be high. Furthermore, we would recommend cutting the trousers wide with two interior pleats, high turn-ups, and one back pocket with a flap. Side adjusters are a nice addition, while belt loops are, of course, out of the question. To complement this suit, we would recommend an eggshell-coloured poplin shirt with your collar of choice (although our signature Zee Jerman [or should that read Zee Jermyn?] collar would surely be a good fit) and long French cuffs. A dark regimental tie in shantung silk will round out the look nicely. Why not opt for a pair of evergreen Kiltie loafers in black? If you want to have the Kiltie loafer of your dreams made for you, we would recommend making an appointment with our good friend and trusted bespoke shoemaker Mr Leonard Kahlcke at his trunk show on the 8th and the 9th of February under the following link. Even if Kiltie loafers aren’t for you, he can make your shoe dreams come true.

The suit discussed above will cost about €2980. The shirt will cost about €219. Mr Kahlcke’s shoes start at €890.

Mid grey high-twist from Harrisons of Edinburgh

Mid grey high-twist from Harrisons – 370g/m

Another viable option for April is a dark-grey heavy high-twist wool fabric (370g/m) from Harrisons of Edinburgh’s Explorer bunch. While it will require a short breaking-in period, the fabric’s open weave will make it breathable and the high-twist will make it extremely crease-resistant when jumping on and off public transport to avoid the inclement weather.

For the jacket, we would recommend a 6X2 double-breasted with wide-bellied lapels, two vents, four sleeve buttonholes (surgeon’s cuffs are standard), two straight pockets with large flaps, and two lapel buttonholes for symmetry. All buttons would be the same dark-grey two-hole buttons from Bernstein and Banley’s mentioned above. For the trousers, we would recommend a high rise, good width through the leg, side adjusters, diagonal pockets, and nothing else; no pleats, no back pockets, and no turn-ups. The only other flourish would be to cut the trousers at an angle – see military cuff.  For the shirt, we would recommend a very reserved light-blue in a zephyr weave with French cuffs and the collar of your preference. Have some fun with your tie and opt navy with white polka dots. In terms of footwear, you can never go wrong with a black cap-toe Oxford. Mr Leonard Kahlcke can help you out with those too.

The suit discussed above will cost about €1990. The shirt will cost about €219.

Jacket in a brown houndstooth from Fox Brothers with trousers in a beige cotton drill from Brisbane Moss and a turtleneck sweater in an orange-yellow cashmere from Cariaggi

Houndstooth from Fox Brothers – 370g/m
Cotton drill from Brisbane Moss – 310g/m
Cashmere from Cariaggi

Spring is a time a time for combinations and adding a splash of colour into your wardrobe again after the dreariness of the colder months. We recommend a brown houndstooth fabric (370g/m) from Fox Brothers’ Somerset Jacketing bunch (a beautiful bunch in general; definitely worth a look!) for the jacket. It would have three closing buttons, a single back vent, two hacking flap pockets, and three sleeve buttons. You could opt for leather-covered buttons or reddish-brown two-hole horn buttons from Bernstein and Banley’s. For the trousers, we would recommend a beige cotton drill (310g/m) from Brisbane Moss. The fabric’s weave and weight assure excellent drape and it provides an interesting contrast in terms of both colour and texture. For the first time ever, we would recommend belt loops. [Don’t worry, we’ll give you a minute to recover from that bomb shell. Okay? Are you back with us?] The trousers would, however, retain their high rise. Moreover, we’d recommend a back pocket with a large flap, two exterior pleats, diagonal pockets, and high turn-ups. To bring the whole look together, we’d recommend an orange-yellow made-to-measure cashmere turtleneck sweater. In terms of footwear, think any loafer. A horse-bit loafer, perhaps?.

The jacket discussed above will cost about €1279. The trousers discussed above will cost about €345. The sweater discussed above will cost about €590. MM/DC