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15. June 2018

Pitti Uomo 94 – I came, I saw … quite little


Maximilian Mogg

It has come and gone. We boys of this world mounted their horses and took a spin on the great carousel Pitti Uomo. Somewhat surprisingly, this year provided very few obvious fashion innovations. Instead, the tendencies of the last few years, although slightly more refined, dominated. Trousers generally sit higher at the waist and are cut wider through the leg. Jacket lengths varied but lapels were almost universally wide and masculine. There was relatively little colour on display, only the occasional splash to complement classic navies, browns, and greys. (Although I must admit to being impressed more than once by some skilful use of colours such as lilac, olive, yellow, and eggshell.) Undeniably, more casual looks dominate the scene. I saw fewer suits, more separates, lots of linen or suede safari jackets, many a brown shoe, and very light ties. As is typical for summer, there were lots of linens – mostly in the stiff, Irish variant – on show, alongside mohairs, frescos, cottons, and blends of all of the above.

Although the title may suggest otherwise, I am actually quite pleased with the current movement towards refining the prevailing sense of style. Not only have people gained more expertise in working with the current, more traditionally masculine aesthetic but it also suggests that the idea of sustainability is really taking hold. Hats off to that!

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Please do keep in mind, dear readers, that circus performers are not my area of expertise and I don’t aim to waste my time or yours analysing their outfits. If you have to scream your message for someone to listen, you’re doing something wrong. MM/DC