Bratislava. Bratislava, Mr. Mogg? What takes you there? Some readers may want to ask. Short answer: A love of craftsmanship and tailoring. In the summer of 2017, I had the pleasure and honour of a chance meeting Mr Eric Mucska (second generation of the family tailoring house Maximilian Mucska) in Berlin. My first impression was phenomenal: himself a lovely man, this was complemented by a forest green sports coat cut perfectly for his body type. At the time, I had no idea that in December 2017 I would be on a plane on my way to the capital of Slovakia. The cut had left a lasting impression.
Maximilian Mucska – Family business
Having arrived in Bratislava and standing in front of the shop, I quickly realized that Eric had not exaggerated about the family house. I stood in front of a shop window featuring two beautifully dressed mannequins. To define the style of the two figures would be difficult, as they are so very different. The one may be best described as a modern Viennese style, the other’s rather soft construction and the narrow cut telling a story of northern Italy. Eric knew how to interpret my look immediately and began explaining that one jacket had been made by his father, Maximilian, the other by his brother Patrik. Therein lies the key to describing the house style. There are two separate house styles linked by common denominator – great cut and quality.
As I introduced myself in the back of the small studio, the eponymous Maximilian sat next to his son Patrik and sewed with a blinding speed and precision with his hand, while occasionally glancing over to inspect the work of the rest of the seven-person team. Not that that would be necessary. All (at least so it seems to me) hard-working professionals, mostly trained at large tailoring houses in neighbouring Vienna. Maximilian, himself classically trained in the Austrian capital, has been working as a tailor for over 40 years. He has also created pieces for theatre and opera productions. He is the head of quality control, walking (historical) cutting book, and inspiration for his sons. One of the aforementioned sons, Patrik, was busy with the cut for a customer. He works day-in, day-out on his own style of cutting, which appeals more to the younger crowd. I certainly do not have to explain to the intelligent reader that this represents a perfect symbiosis.
A bi-generational house style
Patrik Mucska generally cuts slimmer and softer. He places the notch and chest pocket higher than his father. The lapel has slightly more belly and the shoulder is more gently padded. His father cuts more traditionally. Lapels are straight, construction is harder and shoulders are more strongly padded. I asked both of them if one could combine different ideas and they nodded in agreement – not an unusual request.
We decided upon a double-breasted mid-grey flannel suit. The wide lapel’s belly reflects Patrik’s style and the waist will be cut slim. The pants will sit high with a fuller cut and feature a fishtail back. I asked the father for a pagoda-shaped shoulder construction and for a hard full-cut chest. I present some imagery of the first fitting in Florence below – a full review will follow at the next opportunity in this journal. One thing is for certain, I will visit these gentlemen more often; not only because I appreciate their craft so much but because they city they live in is an absolute delight.
Firstly, Maximilian Mucska and myself plan to do joint trunk shows in Berlin this year. If you are interested, you can pre-register under the following link. Secondly, a two-piece suit by Maximilian Mucska starts at € 2,500 including fabric. Thirdly, bespoke shirts are also on offer. Fourthly, stay tuned! In the upcoming weeks, there are more articles about Bratislava’s craftsmanship to come. MM