The weather is quickly getting warmer and everyone is at panic stations. ‘What do you mean I need something other than heavy flannel and tweed?’ As such, we’re providing our suggestions for the warmer months to come. Keep in mind that anything ordered in March will only be ready in May.
Yellow Irish linen from W. Bill
Long-time readers will be aware that we discovered yellow last year and have never looked back. We even dedicated an entire article to the colour – link. The dreary days of autumn and winter are over and nature is coming back to life. We’re going to follow that example and suggest an unlined double-breasted suit cut from a lively yellow Irish linen. W. Bill’s heavy (380g/m) Irish linen wrinkles elegantly, ages wonderfully, and becomes softer over time. Our suit would feature yellow buttons and generally be as conservative as possible (two vents, two straight flap pockets, nothing too fancy). The colour makes a statement all on its own. The lapels should be (as ours always are) wide, and full-bellied. While the number of lapel buttonholes is always customer’s choice, we’d recommend having one on each side for symmetry. The jacket should be unlined to guarantee comfort and breathability in even the hottest climes. For the same reason, we would recommend having the trousers cut very wide. We would also suggest two inverted pleats, high turn-ups, side adjusters, and one flap back pocket.
We would combine the suit with a light blue Chambray shirt and would likely refrain from wearing a tie. We believe that Baudoin & Lange’s Belgian loafers are the ideal shoes for summer. We could imagine complementing the look with a pair of their classic loafers in a brown suede. If hats work for you, we’d recommend a Panama hat with a coloured hat-band.
The suit mentioned above will cost around €1820. The shirt mentioned above will cost around €219. Baudoin & Lange’s loafers are available for around €330.
Forest green high-twist wool from Harrisons of Edinburgh
We’re sticking with the theme of bold colours, although this choice is a touch more discreet. Harrisons of Edinburgh’s high-twist wool is crease-resistant and breathable despite its heavy weight (370g/m). It’s the perfect suit for a Friday. We’d recommend a single-breasted one-button jacket with notch lapels, two vents, and rounded patch pockets. Only having one sleeve button is a great option for more casual summer suits. For the trousers, we’d suggest two external pleats, side adjusters, diagonal pockets, and one flap pocket on the back. A fob pocket is always an option.
We’d recommend combining this suit with a light blue, casual shirt in linen and a pair of sand-coloured suede saddle loafers from our friend and bespoke shoemaker Mr Leonard Kahlcke.
The suit mentioned above will cost around €2120. The shirt mentioned above will cost around €249. Mr Leonard Kahlcke’s shoes start at around €1190.
Morning suit in a black herringbone, light-blue linen waistcoat, and black and grey trousers – all from Dugdale Bros & Co.
The wedding season starts in May. As we believe in being prepared, we recommend having a morning suit for just such occasions. We’ve opted for a heavy (435g/m) black herringbone from Dugdale for the jacket. Beyond that, there are not many choices. It will feature peak lapels, a slightly higher than button stance than we usually recommend, and four sleeve buttons. The lapels could feature black silk edging, if you so wish. The trousers in a heavy (390g/m) black and grey striped wool (390g/m) would have seam pockets and two inverted pleats. We would opt for a fish-tail back, no side adjusters, military cuffs, and one back piped back pocket with a button closure. We would recommend a light-blue double-breasted linen (280g/m) waistcoat with peak lapels, and a light-blue cupro back. The waistcoat could be edged with cream-coloured silk and have two straight welt pockets.
We’d recommend finishing off the look with a cappuccino-striped shirt with a white collar and cuffs, a pink polka dot tie, and bespoke black cap-toe oxfords from Mr Leonard Kahlcke.
The morning suit mentioned above will cost around €2080. The shirt mentioned above will cost around €219. Leonard Kahlcke’s shoes start at €1190. MM/DC