The Suits of the Month: December

The festive period is soon to begin in earnest, the Christmas music and decorations in every public area (even in more unlikely places like the liquor store from which you’ve started stockpiling booze to combat the loneliness) have already provoked a nameless dread deep in your soul (which is likely imaginary anyway), and, worst of all, your dry cleaner couldn’t get the blood out of your Egyptian cotton sheets and doesn’t seem to understand your protests. Thankfully, we here at Maximilian Mogg have put together some outfits to make you look great while you increasingly feel like an empty husk of a human being. Enjoy!

Three-piece suit in navy herringbone from Harrisons (Burley) Ltd

Harrisons (Burley) Ltd – Navy Herringbone – 330g/m

If there is one colour in menswear that is never out of place (whether crying yourself to sleep or wondering whether you can still give a 13-year-old up for adoption… that’s the last one, I promise), it’s navy and there may be no better way to wear a navy than in a subtle herringbone pattern, as it gives a bit of visual interest to a classic fabric. Our 330g/m recommendation comes from a new bunch we’ve recently gotten in from a supplier we’ve been working with for a while. Namely, Harrisons (Burley) Ltd., a small family business that has been producing fabrics since the 1920s and offers almost unrivalled value-for-money.  We would recommend our customers make a three-piece suit with peak lapels. The jacket would feature one closing button, four sleeve buttons, relatively wide lapels, side vents, a full cupro (bemberg) lining, and two straight flap pockets. The waistcoat would have no lapels, five buttons, and two jet pockets. The waistcoat back would be made in the suit fabric. The trousers would be relatively discreet with two seam pockets and one piped back pocket. The hems of the (by our standards) quite slim trousers would feature a military cuff. A classic shirt in Thomas Mason eggshell poplin with a French placket and cuffs will keep this look classic. The choice of collar always depends on the customer’s face shape. Maintaining that classic theme, we’d recommend a burgundy or navy silk tie. Regular readers will be absolutely shocked and dismayed to hear that we would recommend a black cap-toe oxford – for advice, get in touch with Mr Leonard Kahlcke, our shoemaker of choice.

A three-piece suit in a navy herringbone from Harrisons (Burley) Ltd will cost €1477.  The shirt will cost €219.

Three-piece dinner suit in black barathea from Smith Woollens

Smith Woollens – Black Barathea – 545g/m

The festive season is black tie season. We recommend a three-piece dinner suit in a very heavy black barathea (545g/m) from Smith Woollens. The jacket would be unvented; the peak lapels, buttons, and piped pockets would be covered in grosgrain silk. Furthermore, the jacket would feature one closing button and four sleeve buttons and be cut slightly longer than your average lounge suit. As above, the back of the waistcoat would be cut in the same fabric as the rest of the dinner suit. The front would be cut deep, be slightly rounded, and feature three closing buttons and two piped pockets, all covered in grosgrain silk. The trousers would be cut somewhat narrower than usual, sit high at the navel, feature seam pockets, silk braid, braces buttons, a fish-tail back, and forego side adjusters. We would recommend trousers with no back pockets or pleats to add some sleekness to the overall look. The evening shirt should be a white or eggshell zephyr or poplin with a marcella breast and studs (ideally gold with mother-of-pearl), and cuffs. As you can read in our article Black Tie – Refined, wing-tip collars are not an adequate choice for black tie. We would recommend our single end bow tie, black silk OTC socks, and opera pumps – ask another of our recommended shoemakers, Mr Korbinian Ludwig Hess, for advice on footwear.

A three-piece dinner suit in a black barathea from Smith Woollens will cost €2200. The shirt will cost €279. Our single-end bow tie will cost €89. Our silk OTC socks will cost €35.

Red chunky crew-neck sweater in Cariaggi cashmere and grey trousers in a Vitale Barberis Canonico flannel

Red Cashmere from Cariaggi
Mid-grey Flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico – 340g/m

What are you going to wear when opening gifts with the ones you (…) love? If you have to endure too many hugs, we recommend Cariaggi’s red ultra-soft 4-ply cashmere in a crew neck. A light-blue button down shirt in a heavy oxford fabric with a three-button cuff is the perfect choice of shirt. Your flannels should feature a high rise, deep interior pleats, two diagonal pockets, one back pocket with a flap, side adjusters, and turn-ups. Complete the look with some wool OTC socks and some house slippers.

A 4-ply MTM cariaggi cashmere sweater will cost €690. The trousers will cost €330. The shirt will cost €249.

Additional information

If you just can’t bear to brave the shops, but still need gifts so that you don’t end up totally alone, have a look at our gifts sectionMM/DC

Maximilian Mogg

Kreativdirektor & Chefredakteur

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