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5. June 2020

DEBATES AT MOGG TOWERS — What To Look for When Commissioning a Summer Suit


Bob The wardrobe builder

As we lamented in a previous Debates at Mogg Towers piece, all of us at Bleibtreustraße are looking forward to summer with giddy anticipation. This has been made all the more acute with the shop’s reopening – we are excited about welcoming customers again, the warmer weather and a return to (something resembling) normality.

So, when Max asked me to write a piece about commissioning a summer suit, I thought that there are a couple of ways to think about this. The first is to think of the summer suit as something different to what you’d wear in the other three seasons. Lighter colours and fabrics, maybe something a bit more casual. This is a right and proper way to think about the subject, and there are a bunch of different things you can do. Flat-fronted trousers, maybe to be worn with a belt, an unlined jacket, maybe with a three-roll-two button configuration. All great choices for summer.

Or, you can do the exact opposite, and keep all of the stylistic flourishes you’d have in your spring, autumn and winter suits, albeit in a lightweight summer fabric. Linen, seersucker, maybe a tropical-weight wool. But, you could still order your summer suits with the same details you’d have in any other suit.

In fact, the more I think about it, even though we’re all desperate for longer brighter days, there should really be little difference when you commission a suit any time of the year, June through August included. So, if I was commissioning a summer suit for those balmy months, here’s what I’d go for:

  • Trousers — I like mine with deep, double, inward-facing English pleats, big capacious turn-ups, buttons for braces and tabs in the back for those specific buttons. I’m also a big fan of button-fly trousers, and side adjusters (either traditional or with Daks fastenings) are a nice, though not necessary, option, if you have brace buttons. Fishtail finishing is also a popular option, although is perhaps a bit too formal for a lounge suit. And, always, always, always get at least two pairs of trousers with any suit  
  • Jackets — lots of options and decisions here. There first is to choose between double-breasted or single-breasted. The Mogg double-breasted house style is an excellent choice, with wide peaked lapels and a rather low button fastening. If you opt for single-breasted (my favourite), why not a one button suit with a high button stance, slanted pockets (with a ticket pocket, natch) double vents … the full monty. I also like a three button style, which would work well with a pale linen suit.

Personally, I’d go for a mid-to-dark-blue tropical weight wool suit, with all the details I’ve outlined above.

There’s really no right or wrong answers when it comes to a summer suit, other than getting the fabric choice right. Choose something lightweight and the House of Mogg will cut you a suit that is just as stylish as anything you’d wear in the cooler months. Go more casual, or equally as formal, and you’ll look like a million bucks, and you’ll be very cool, in all senses of that word! BTWB/MM/YS