MAX MOGG – BERLIN made-to-measure suits are cut in a slim, sophisticated, and timeless style. In this section, we would like to explain our house style to you. We are not just going to explain the aesthetics of our suits, but also explain the thinking behind the construction of our suits.
MAX MOGG - BERLIN
Construction & Finishing
All of our suits are fully-canvassed. If you do something, you should do it right. When commissioning a high-quality suit, the last thing you should skimp on is the construction. We also have a weakness for the finer details, such as hand-made button holes or hand-attached collars.
The shoulder-line is possibly the most distinctive part of a tailor’s work and we do not shy away from telling you what should be glaringly obvious: our aesthetic is distinctly British. Our shoulders are roped and extend ever so slightly past the natural shoulder point. This offers a more dynamic and athletic silhouette.
Armhole & Sleeves
Our armholes are cut very high. Aside from its clear functional advantages, it also adds something to the aesthetic. The high armhole affords maximum comfort and freedom of movement while simultaneously stretching the silhouette to make the upper body look more slender. To further accentuate this slender look, we cut our sleeves rather slim, creating a true hourglass shape through the body.
Our jackets are cut unabashedly long. There are many reasons why we don’t appreciate overly short suits. Other than the functional benefits of a longer jacket, it also elongates the silhouette. Our ideal length covers the fork of the trousers. This lengthens the look of the legs and upper body immensely. That being said, we always apply our own formula to determine ideal length. The key things we look at are relative arm length, length of the upper body, and overall body type.
A beautiful suit must have a beautiful back. We cut the back as slim as possible without restricting freedom of movement. This is one of a good tailor’s most important tasks.
Our button stance is relatively low. Generally, the closing button is placed at the natural waist. This will draw the eye to the slimmest point of the body and allow the lapels to achieve their full potential.
Our silhouette has been described as being more traditionally feminine than masculine. This is why our wide lapels play a key role. Wider lapels serve to build up the look of the chest and balance out the overall look.
In almost all cases, we recommend that the trousers have a high rise, about the height of the navel. There are many reasons for this. The two most important, however, are that this elongates the look of the legs and makes sure the wearer avoids showing any shirt under the closing button.
While we accept that this is a point of contention and we always respect our customers’ wishes, we recommend that the trousers be cut wider than most tailors. Not only does this make the trousers more comfortable and look more louche, but it also makes a tall man’s feet appear smaller and more elegant.
The trousers are cut close to the wearer’s seat until its widest point and fall from the seat to the shoe in a straight line.
Our trouser length is highly influenced by tradition. Hence, we do not adhere to the trend of overly short trousers. We appreciate the understatement and luxury of trousers which reach the middle of the heel of the shoe. We generally recommend finishing the hems in a diagonal line (also known as a military cuff) to give the perfect balance between correct trouser length and limited break on the shoe.
Our waistcoats are cut short and sit on the waistband to perfectly complement our high-rise trousers.
Our waistcoats are cut close in the back. While other options are available, we recommend having the back made in the same fabric as the rest of the waistcoat. We simply believe that this look more elegant and less gaudy.
Overall, our waistcoats are designed to look very slim. This creates a timeless, athletic, and elegant silhouette.